Help Please! My bike wont stay running!

update?

 

This is my favorite thread lately.

*rectifier

 

Nope! If you cant test it, take it to Skinny punk, or Wrench!!
Why spend $$$ if it's not the problem???
'Test first, then make an informed decision'

 

+1

I'm a cheap bastard and test everything before replacing.

 

If you follow that link I posted it will tell you how to test it....If voltage is over 13.5 and less than 14.8 @ 5000 rpm the charging system is fine.....

Dan

 

As long as the charge voltage does not drop below 13.5 with the engine anywhere over 1500 rpm, it should be perfectly fine. From what you stated so far, there doesnt seem to be a problem with the charging system.

There is a possibility of a poor connection somewhere in your charging system. Pull the connector plugs apart and be sure there is no corroded connections, or melted connections. Follow the wires from the stator in the engine to the voltage regulator. There should be like 3 wires, all probably white colored. Be sure all the connections look perfect (clean brass or tinned brass color), and that the pins in the connections have not backed out at all.

There is also a possibility that the voltage regulator / rectifier quits working when it gets hot. You will have to run the bike for an extended period of time and do a voltage check again to see this.

I still think you need to check to see if there is a draw on the system. That is a very easy check with a DC Amp clamp, or even a test light as suggested earlier.

 

Close but not quite on with electron theroy.
Higher voltage will flow more amps threw a givin load.
Because 1 volt will push 1 amp threw 1 ohm of resistance.
So higher the voltage the more amps it will push threw that ohm of resistance.
However in an electric motor when it spins there is CEMF
counter elctric motive force. Basiccly the faster it spins the more resistance it "creates" so it will flow less amps, but if you have low voltage then the motor won't spin fast enough to cause CEMF and it will have say .25 ohms at 9 volts so it will flow 36 amps instead of say 2 ohms at 12volts which would be 6 amps. This is why trying to start something with a weak battery will often burn up a starter.

Not trying to be a know it all..... Just want the right info out there....

 

AMother way to check for parasitic draws with your multi meter is put it o. The dc amps setting (if yours doesn't have this then you can't do it)
then you would unhook you negative terminal of you battery and put one test lead on the battery post and the other lead on the battery cable. It should give you a reading of .0025 or something along those lines.
If it's at .0xx then. Change settings to dc MA which is milli amps.
Then do that same test again, i'm not sure what the maximum draw for a bike is but I would say if you have a reading higher then 25.00 MA then you have a problem. But if your under 25 MA then most likely not. More often then not you will only see 6-10 MA of draw.
Keep in mind you need to do this with all lights off and the key OUT of the ignition.

 

Sorry, I worded it wrong, but corrected it.

This is copied from http://science.howstuffworks.com/question5011.htm

 

^^^
That’s not quite true. The resistance is interrelated at the macroscopic level and the electrical properties of matter at the microscopic level use a closely related vector equation when the scalar variables are each functions position within the conductor. Where the electric field vector is the units of amperes per unit area and where the resistivity is the conductivity of it’s reciprocal, the element of path along the integration of the electric field vector applies uniform along the length of the conductor. The crystallographic defects, multiple isotopes and thermal motion of the atoms in the metal scatter the field, resulting in resistance to their flow.

It’s clear that the constitutive equations and the transport coefficients as the relate to the electronic structure are an indication that your STATOR is bad.

 

Who let bill nye the science guy in!!
J/k but my head hurts after trying to read that

 

for sure its your r/r or stator had this same problem with my 929 stators rarely go bad, but it happens all the same rode mine back from missoula to spokane on a fully charged battery then had to swap my battery with my buddy cause mine went dead. after putting in his battery and unpluggin my headlight, i limped it the rest of the way home after all was said and done i had to replace both the r/r and stator. a tip though only by from the factory, cause ive had problems with the aftermarket ones