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new zx6rr

Discussion in 'Westside' started by Jafar, May 20, 2005.

  1. Jafar

    Jafar Retired Admin

    got my new zx6rr on wednesday, put almost 200 miles on it, mostly in the rain. aaaaaRR, i love it.

    gonna take a hacksaw to it on saturday, though. we'll see how she likes that, ya gotta let em know who's boss, sometimes. though the jap bikes are more ruly and obedient than those haughty italians. gotta get that brake lever so its in the right position, Kawi didn't design it very well. aside from that, its the funnest bike i've ever riden! the gear box is crazy! you fly through the gears like an F1 car, bam bam bam, very close ratio. the note on the exaust is beautiful, too (13.9:1 compression).

    can't wait to do my 700 mile check up so i can throw some new full-synthetic oil in there and let her rip. only had it up to around 12k so far, she redlines at 16,500!!!!!!!!!!

    other than that the brakes are amazing, the slipper clutch is a blast, and the handling is the best i've ever felt--although i set the preload on the rear shock to full soft, its still too stiff, probably. very tight suspension.

    anyway, pics are coming. can't wait to ride with ya'all!
  2. Sounds like you are going to have a blast on your new scooter!!!!!!!!!!!! SWEET

  3. jezterr

    jezterr Retired Admin


    wouldn't you wanna soften the compression and rebound, too? as far as i've noticed, all preload does for me is lower it...
  4. Don't even think of using synthetic oil until you have at least 3,000 break in miles on it. I waited until 4K miles.
  5. cordodor

    cordodor Retired

    just got the new sportrider. zx6rr looks like a tight bike. 16,500 is amazing. have fun!
  6. Jafar, I would not recommend putting synthetic oil in that bike until you stack a little bit more mileage in her. I read time and time again that you dont want to switch to synthetic until preferably 10k miles is on that engine, but definitely not with less than 5k miles on it.

    I know you are doing it under Keith's recommendation, and while I dont doubt Keith's fixated knowledge, you should get Keith to register on here and share all his wise wisdom he has picked up over the years.

    What are you gonna hacksaw? The rear fender? Dont cut it, dismantle it as a whole piece and buy a fender eliminator that will clean it up nicely. A whole rear fender will still fetch $30-$60 on ebay.

    All Kawi levers are setup the way they uncrate it, so you definitely need to adjust them to your liking.

    Did you end up going to Oregon City as planned?
  7. I have heard some great things about the 6rr to bad its a kawi
  8. jezterr

    jezterr Retired Admin

  9. I have a few pics, but here is the overall shot of it:

  10. Jafar

    Jafar Retired Admin

    i softened up the rear preload all the way, and adjusted the compression and rebound dampening the way they recommened in sportrider magazine. same with the front. it works pretty well, the back end is good, the front might need a little more adjusting, but it still feels really nice.

    i've got 1200 miles on it now, and just took it in for the 600mi inspection.

    i hacked off some parts that were keeping the front brake lever from being in a better position (down further). you can't see what i hacked off unless you take the assembly off.

    brakes are phenomenal, but i'm most impressed with the suspension, once i got it set up better. they stock set-up has you bouncing around on freeway bumbs, its pretty scary.

    just started a new job and been working on the bike, thats why i haven't been posting much. we need to ride soon!
  11. jabstar17

    jabstar17 Le Bitch

    yeah, no synthetic tell at least 5000 miles. I didn't put it my zx636 tell 11000 miles. I wish I had the slipper clutch!
  12. Jafar

    Jafar Retired Admin

    here's what i did:

    dumped the factory oil at 12miles, and threw in repsol synthetic blend along with a new filter and a magnet to catch all the downstream particles.i took the bike to the dealer with 1200miles on it and gave them Redline synthetic oil (high-grade esther-based racing oil).

    the bike didn't burn any of the repsol and after riding it today with the redline, i notice it shifts 100% better. apparently, redline puts something called moly in the oil that helps the transmission a lot.

    redline is about the same quality as the motul or sylkaline full-synthetic, but at about half the cost.

    oil seems like a contraversial topic, i'd like to hear the reasons why people say not to put synthetic oil in at low mileage. i have a friend who has been doing it for years with good results, and who has done his research.
  13. Avoiding synthetic during break-in is because of how well built engines are nowadays. When you're breaking in your motor, you actually want some friction going on at the cylinder walls. The machining leaves the walls 'rough' (on a very very small level), with peaks of varying height (if you looked at it via cross section). During the break-in period you need friction to wear those peaks down so that they're all at relatively the same height. Think of taking a mountain range and wearing it down to look like a saw, or teeth or something more level overall. Having fewer higher points means that you've got a better seal overall, which is going to mean more power/better running through the life of the motor. The modern processes for making the motors are so precise, that it's harder and harder to break it in. There is less friction to begin with when the motor is fresh. When you go ahead and throw synthetic in, you can end up never really breaking the motor in well. It's important that the wearing down of these peaks happens with the motor assembled (instead of theoretically building perfectly sized pistons and cylinders) so that the parts fit for each other. That's what breaking them in is.

    If you don't know the analogy for synth vs dino oil, one good explanation is to think of moving parts in your motor as two tables, with their tops laying on each other. Synthetic oil is like a sheet of marbles all exactly the same size in between those table tops to let them roll smoothly. Dino oil is made of marbles of varying sizes, so the contact points of the tables aren't evenly distributed and equal throughout. Of course the synthetic reduces friction and all sorts of other things, and is great for most motors. However, during break-in with a motor made these days, the last thing you need to do is reduce friction even further.

    Yep, this is right. Think about the word, pre-load. Preload simply adjusts how much the springs are clamped in their natural state. The purpose of adjusting preload is for changing height, and accomodating weight, as well as changing what part of the spring you are working with. Taking the preload all the way out just means that the spring is stretched out as far as possible at the top of the stroke. Adding more preload would mean you were pre-compressing the spring (or, pre-loading, :!: ). An example of changing for weight would be for a lighter rider. They might want to increase preload (lowering the bike/clamping the springs) because their weight isn't enough to get the springs through the top part of the compression and into the middle or lower parts, where it may be softer and/or function better.

    Glad you like your bike, there is some awesome technology on those new machines!
  14. Jafar

    Jafar Retired Admin

    after 1200 miles of blend, it doens't burn any full-synthetic. i'd say its broken in well and no problems seating. i've got almost 1900 on it now. due to the red-line oil, i can upshift very easily and smoothly without using the clutch--much easier than when i had the blend in there. very worth it.

    porshe ships they're cars new with full-synth in them. some motors take longer to seat, i.e. they'll burn oil for longer before they rings seat and they quit burning oil. BMW is an example of this. i'm guessing most new jap bikes don't take long before they seat.

    side note: eastside kawasaki rolled me off they're lot with 87 octane gas in the tank on a bike that has 13.9:1 compression. is that normal? or do some dealers actually put the right gas in they're new bikes?
  15. no eastside kawi SUCKS!!!!!!! grrrr dont get me started bro...

    that high compression, you need more than just 91 but definitely never put anything less. the dealer is stupid and I cant believe how horrible they treated ya man. go tell keith and go back in there and renig the contract until they give you some cash back. call the better business bureau, the attorney general, and both governors!

  16. crackup:
    Sorry. Just had to take the opportunity to quote you with this.
    I love all bikes, so nothing personal :mrgreen:
  17. Another dreaded oil thread. crackup:
    All Ducatis roll out of the factory with synthetic oil.
  18. Jafar

    Jafar Retired Admin

    i think there are a lot of rumors out there about oil, and thats why nobody likes talking about it.
  19. I'm afraid to use oil, as I hear free air works better.