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Power Comander?

Discussion in 'Mechanical & Technical' started by Beerbohm, May 5, 2005.

  1. I have heard a few people talking about a power comander for my bike 03 gsxr 1000. What do they do how much of a difference would I notice the difference and how much do they cost. At this point the only mods I have done on my bike is a slip on pipe and a k&N filter. I have also heard of re-mapping what does that do how much ect.... Also what does Dyno do to your bike. I know these are ignerent (misspelled) questions but I would like to modifie my bike and don't know what to start with.

    THanks for any input
     
  2. It would allow you to change or remap your A/F curve to tune performance. Generally, the best way to do the tuning is on a dyno (a device for measuring hp and a/f) so that you are not just doing it by the seat of your pants.

    Are you still running the set valve or did you remove it? If you removed it, I'd probably consider getting one since you are running a K&N. My guess is that you are probably running lean at least through a part of the a/f curve.
     

  3. Get ahold of johnny-b, he has one, seems to like it

    E
     
  4. jabstar17

    jabstar17 Le Bitch

    Being a suzuki, you go to Camp. He can remap your stock ecu. So that you dont need a power comander! With that k&n and Pipe, your bike is running extremely lean, Which is extremely bad on the motor. It shortens the life ten fold. So get'er done. Camp charges like $80 to do it.
     
  5. Beerbohm make sure you talk to Camp before you do anything, The wrech working on has some info for you. Your bike looks nice when its taken apart!!!!!!!!!!!!! :pottytrain2:
     
  6. I've had lots of experience with power commanders and basically, it depends on the type of rider you are. It is true that you will notice some performance increases BUT, for the money, it's probably better to just take your bike to Beuadry Motorsports in Postfalls and have them make you a map on the dyno and burn it to your stock ECU (the brains of your engine). I on the other hand like tweeking my maps depending on the rides we're doing and adjusting the bikes performance to the way I like it best. This does take some understanding of what's going on with your bike and what the numbers mean. (oh yeah, you need access to a laptop as well, or be able to pull your bike up to your desktop PC) No disrespect intended, but if you got a slip on system (and not full system) you're probably going for sound/looks more than peak power (which is fine...been there, done that) If it were me, I'd safe the $300.00 and not buy a PCIII. And although different people have different opinions on motors...I wouldn't touch your setup you have if it runs right for you now. I don't think you're gonna do ANY harm to your motor as it is right now with a "slip-on" and a Filter. Running a "little" lean is only gonna give you a little extra power. As long as you aren't backfiring upon deceleration, you're probably fine. Again, some people here have been riding for 20+ years...I've only owned 4 street bikes (not counting dirt) in my 8 years of riding roads...again, the BEST thing you can do is ask...see what people suggest and do what you think fits you. PM me if you want more details, I'll give you my number.
     
  7. I don't know if the PowerCommander does this, but I seen A/F controllers where you had options to select either "performance" or "economic" mode; which allowed you to select for the specific ridding you'd be doing for that day.
     
  8. The whole k&n thing on 1k's is bs. A k&N doesn't do anything for 1k's the stock filters are as good flow wise. The only filter that has increased flow over the stock is the BMC but they really let to much through for street riding, especially in eastern dusty washington. But if you want a reuseable filter their fine. Don't expect to see hp from it though.

    Get a a PC if you can afford it. Last I knew camp couldn't do the 03 on up ecu's on the 1k. Could have changed though. But once you change you ecu its can't just be easily put back to stock.Its flashed and no longer has the stock map. The advantage of the PC is you can tweak it yourself if mechanically inclined. Also if you sell your bike and want to put it back to stock to sell the aftermarket parts seperately all you do is pull it off.


    That being said a custom map is 200 to 300. Even a stock bike can benefit from a custom map though. As someone said if you pulled the set valve then you have probably noticed a lag under 6k. Mine ran like shite with a full ehaust and the set valve removed. You can also hurt them running them too lean, but a slip on is not going to do that.

    Even if you get a PC, the maps that you can download are hit and miss and you will go through a couple before your bike actually runs better. Usually not the map that dynojet say works. But if you have a palm pilot you can head out riding and experiment loading maps from your palm pilot. THe accelerator pump feature is cool on the pc's too. Allows you to shoot an inreased of gas for so many revoloutions of the motor upon acceleration.

    I wouldn't take shit to beaudry's though, just my opinion. Maybe they have a good mechanic, I don't know. But they have piss poor customer service in my opinion. And they are way overpriced when it comes to selling bikes. I guess if you have money to burn and like people to treat you like its and honor to buy a bike from them then go there.
     
  9. +1 on everything LRG said... esp Beaudrys :evil:
     
  10. Beaudrys---

    Dave at parts

    Gary at service

    Avoid Paul like the plague in sales

    you will be happier given those parameters

    E
     
  11. jabstar17

    jabstar17 Le Bitch

    What I learned from the dyno guys when I had mine done.

    Stock FI is running between 75-85% of ist potential. Put a power comander on, and use a map that they provide, your FI is at 80-90%. Do a custom dyno for $160-200 depending where you go. Your at a 100%, providing the guy tuning it, know what he is doing.

    Go to members rides and Matts 636 is my dyno sheet. The red line is from everything I did, which was actually pretty good, I had it at about 108 corrected rear wheal horspower (CwHP). Goerge the guy who did my dyno, worked his magic, him just playing with a/f mixture and mapping it, gained 3 1/2 horsepower in about 1.5 hours. Only cost me $160, ran awesome ever since. That is some of the cheapest horsepower gains you can ever get.


    here is the dyno sheet.
    [​IMG]