Privacy guaranteed - Your email is not shared with anyone.

Scotts Damper

Discussion in 'Mechanical & Technical' started by Trixie, Jun 14, 2005.

  1. So I'm planning on buying one REALLY soon... and have been shopping around for one online... wondering if anyone knows how model specific they are. I found quite a few decently priced (used) but curious as to whether I will get screwed by picking one up off of a 450 EXC for example. THANKS!
  2. Are you having headshake issues? Have you committed a tank-slapper lately? The geometry on the R6 isnt that agressive, you might not necessarily need one right off the bat. Just tryin to save you some bucks!


  3. jezterr

    jezterr Retired Admin

    the r6 is known to be the most squirrely of all the middleweights. wouldn't hurt to get a damper. that and i think trixie's planning on doing some stunting.

    i wouldn't use a damper designed for another model, because things like the distance between the steering head and the tank bolts can vary quite a bit through all the bikes. if you get one that doesn't quite fit, even if you find some way to mod it, there's always the possibility it'll catch on somethiing, lock up, bind, etc.

    get one specifically for your bike, por favor. wouldn't wanna see that nice ass rashed up.
  4. I know I don't NEED one, but would really like one for some of the little stupid stunt thingies I've been trying & the higher end speeds. It would be nice to have and was something that I was actually looking for when I was looking to buy my bike. Just something to protect me a little more.
  5. Once you perfect your mile+ long wheelies and the tire stops spinning, that damper will help you out when you go back down. :mrgreen:
    Not for me, but I know others that do them all the time.
  6. Trixie, if you're determined to spend your money ($300 or so for a good one, up to $1000 for the best) on a damper, may I suggest you get a plunger type that can be fitted to a variety of bikes and has a wide range of adjustment. This type is model-specific only in the size of the clamp that fits on the fork tube. You can then adjust it for exactly how heavy you want the steering to be. Keep in mind that most racers use dampers because their bikes steering geometry is so steep and the cornering forces are so high that they require something to stabalize the front end. Because thier handlebars are so narrow, there's not much leverage for their arms to perform the damping function. To test how much your arms are functioning as dampers on your bike, loosen up your grip on trailing throttle sometime and see how much headshake you get. If you get a lot and you are planning on stunting, get a damper. Most street bikes don't need one for normal riding. My Buell is known for having a steep rake angle, but I don't use a damper because I adapt my riding style to the limits of the bike, and that doesn't necesssarily mean slowing down. Your money may well be better spent on a high performance riding school or a track day to practice your craft. Best of luck !
  7. It's not an issue of something that I am "thinking" of getting anymore... I've been playing around a lot, and want to get into stoppies (i haven't even tried yet, and won't w/o a damper) and wheelies a lot more and want that extra protection in those situations. I also have noticed the shake more than I want when I release the handle bars or shift my body weight all over the bike (ie: onto the front end, up over the bars, onto the back seat, onto just one side, etc) on the straight lines at near 100mph speeds and would like to tighten that up so that I can release the handle bars more willingly. I am also looking into throttle clamps so I can get my hands off all together. I already found a super cheap Scotts mount for the damper for the R6, just wondering now about how model specific the actual damper is so that I can either find one a little cheaper by buying used/eBay or whether I should just go buy a new R6 specified one.
  8. Cupped Front Tire.
  9. If it continues after you put the new tires on, you may want to have the steering head barrings checked
  10. If your gonna go whole-hog on the stunt poo, consider a thumb brake to operate the rear. Makes you safe!

  11. Just get an ohlins- Try indysuperbikes they are about the cheapest on most stuff and are easy to deal with.
  12. yeah... I'm pretty much set on getting the scotts.
  13. The Scott's is a nice piece, I had one on my old R1,If you do find a deal on a used one you can get a install kit for what ever bike you need it for through Scott's
  14. +1
  15. I already have the kit, i just need the damper... but that's what I'm wondering, how specific does the actually damper have to be to my bike? can I just get a general one and have the mount kit for my bike???
  16. Thumb brake? I have never heard of one of those. How much and were do you get them?
  17. You mean like the thumb throttles on quads?
  18. Yeah, little thumb lever that actuates the rear brake so that you can actually feel your rear brake instead of the on/off of the foot pedal. Only really has 2 uses tho; stunters doing balanced wheelies at lower speeds or more vertical positions, and GP riders using it to settle the rear in turns. Id think they would be handy doing slow speed stuff in the stunt realm tho.

  19. To answer your question, Trixie: If you already have the application kit for your bike, you can pretty much mount any Scotts damper that will accept the application kit and I think that's any of them. The damper itself is adjustable, so you can tailor the damping action to your taste. As for me, I like to keep either both tires on the ground (better traction that way) or both tires in the air (more fun that way). Luck to you on that stunting thing - wear your helmet & armour when practicing.
  20. Between the new Pilot Powers and Ohlins steering damper my 04 R1 is a new bike.
    I have the damper set at 12 clicks (16 is Max).
    Took about 20 minutes to install and the cost was $324.00 from tobefast aka McCoy motorsport.

    Well worth the $$$, Wish i had installed it from mile one.

    One little bit of warning--if you crank the damper all the way to 16 clicks watch out--it's like a steering lock.

    Set at 10-12 clicks i have no problem with tank slaps with full throttle shifting in the 12000 rpm level.

    Bike feels like it's on rails now.

    Buz.. 8)