Well, that went a lot better than I thought it would! All done in about 3 hours. If I hadn't mis-assembled the first fork I would have been done sooner. As it is, I put the spacer in first....had to dump out the measured oil, remove spacer, refill with oil, suck out extra oil and start all over again. Forks are back on the bike but the front wheel is still off. WOOOT! I getta ride this weekend! So let's see....first, start by removing your forks from your bike. If you can do that, you can replace the seals. THen getcha one of these in 8 MM variety. See? Just long enough! HA, that's what she said! Then this yucky nasty crap comes out the bottom and makes a mess until you get it over the bucket. Then, CAREFULLY clap the tube in a vise. I mean carefully. 22MM wrench will get the top loose....and you will see this! Remove the slotted cap. Then, use a 17 MM wrench on the nut and a 14MM wrench on the BLUE preload adjuster on the top. Loosen and remove. Pull off the white spacer and set it aside. Remove the damper rod assembly and spring too. Now for the fun part. The seal is still in there. Remove the CLIP on the top of the seal carefully with a small screwdriver. Hold the fork TUBE between your feet and use the chrome tube as a slide hammer to remove the seal. Don't pull too hard, it will take a few whacks to drive the old seal out. And you'll be rewarded with this. Don't forget about this guy at the bottom of the tube!! Now, clean all your parts! Mine had some fine metal powder in it, this is normal because metal parts are sliding past each other. So, everything is clean, right? RIGHT? Good. Put the lower fork tube in a vise, CAREFULLY! Don't want to mar that pretty paint, do we? Slide the bushing and washer back on the fork. Remember these parts? Also, drop the little aluminum spacer back into the bottom, patterned side DOWN. Insert the damper rod assembly into the chrome fork tube and carefully lower the whole thing back into the fork tube. Now, get the bolt you removed earlier...the one with the copper sealing washer? Yup, that one. Start the bolt back in and hand snug it. Then use the impact on a LOW setting and tighten it up. CAREFULLY! Don't wanna break things. So, you've got your new seal. Which way does it go? I got factory Suzuki parts. Has a yellow dot on it. That side goes UP! This side goes down. You wanna know what makes a really, REALLY good seal driver? Shop vac extension. Yup, not kidding at all. Perfect size with a nice wide surface so you don't damage the new seal. HAHA! Drive the seal down so it's past the groove. Then insert our friend, the clip. Use a small screwdriver to press fully into place if needed. Now, fill with oil up to maybe 6" from the top. Grab the damper rod assembly in the center and work it up and down until the action is smooth and there is no more gurgling of air. Add a bit more oil. Factory says 162MM from the top of the fork tube. I went 140MM cuz people said that was the hot tip. Your mileage may vary. So, got the oil done? Great! Drop the spring in, WIDE GAP COILS at the top!! Very important. Add our buddy the white spacer. Then the metal cap, depressed side down. Now for the locknut. Factory manual states the nut must be 11MM from the top of the threads. Measure, measure again, hold the nut and install the fork cap. Then, snug up with your 17 and 14 MM wrenches. Grab the fork tube, slide it up and start turning. Snug the cap into the fork tube. Almost done! Don't forget the dust wipers...clean those up and re-use if you can or install new ones. Hey, we're done! Not that painful.