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Wrecked the bike yesterday. Need help

Discussion in 'Tacoma-Puyallup' started by jdigitty, Aug 26, 2012.

  1. Ok so here the story. I went out yesterday with a few friends, when a guy up front wrecked. Some of the guys in between stooped on the road so it was hit them or the ditch. Well I picked the ditch, My gear did its job. I'm fine but now I am trying to fix the bike. I already fixed the the plastics and put everything back to together. The only thing I need to do is finger out why my front brakes aren't working. They were working fine till I wrecked. I bleed them went though a bottle of fluid. After all that I gave up for today but looked at the pads and they look chipped. Tomorrow I want to pull them and check them out. My question to y'all is how do I check the rotors to make sure they are straight and does anyone have a front stand I could borrow to finger this out?
  2. does it have a cable on it at all? not sure how they work but take a look.

    did you learn not to tail gate? =/

  3. lol I guess. No all hydraulic.
  4. i dont think it would be air, have u looked to make sure u didnt crack a line or part that holds the calipers it in place. to check out the rotor i would lift the front end and spin the tire. look at the rotor and see if it it strait or bent. i would hit the brakes and see if u can see the pads moving in and out, if u cant figure it out by tomorrow after noon and need help let me know ill be glad to give u a hand....
  5. Are the pads not gripping the rotor or do you feel air in the lines? Two different problems that would both result in the brakes "not working". Is there any fluid weeping? Going through a bottle of DOT 4 just to bleed brakes is quite excessive.
  6. just replace everything. That way there if it does get fixed you know somewhere in the system and you have all new brakes up front. If you replace piece by piece you will probably stop at the point when it starts working and have possibly half a new system working with half new.
  7. Gamuru

    Gamuru Big Brother

    Sometimes one will need to use a power bleeder to get the brakes to bleed up, especially if the hoses are older.
  8. Use a dial indicator on the rotors to look for bent or warped areas. You can not always see a bent rotor by eye, but you will feel brake chop. If there are no leaks, then you have air in the system. GL
  9. Are_Six

    Are_Six Moderator Staff Member

    I have a front stand, I live in Kent. Happy to let you borrow it.

    You say the front brakes aren't working, but how does that problem manifest itself?

    You pull the lever and nothing happens?

    Does the lever have the normal amount of resistance?
  10. In a pinch, I've use a small scissor jack. Just lock the forks with the key and jack one fork leg up till it just frees the wheel. Obviously you can't work on it like that but you can at least spin the wheel.
    Just don't jack it very high. The bike sets on a 3 point (front and rear wheels, side stand) so it's the same thing.
    I lock it turned left, so you can put the little jack under the left fork leg.
    Works great for cleaning the rim and what not.

    P.S. Too bad about hitting the dirt. Get her fixed and stay out of the ditches. :)
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2012
  11. Specifically how are the brakes "not working"?

    1. When you pull the brake lever, does the lever go completely to the grip with no resistance?

    2. When you pull the brake lever, does the lever meet resistance and travel only about halfway through its range of motion, but the brake pads fail to extend and grip the front rotor?

    These are two separate situations. It's difficult to determine the problem without knowing the symptoms.
  12. Maybe th leaver to a hard impact and blew a seal in the master?
  13. Ok, SO the problem is i go and bleed the system get pressure and hold the brake and bike doesn't move. Then I roll the bike 2-3 feet and pull the lever and it goes to the grip and the brakes don't grab. I have someone going to let me borrow the stand Are_Six if that falls through I will hit you up thanks. Going to take the rotors out and check to see if they are straight and i already no I'm going to need pads because just looking at them i can see that they chipped. I would replaces the whole system if i was rich but I'm not so, trouble shooting and replacing what needs to be replaced is the way I'm going to go SkiPunk11. Also i bleed them the normal way pump pump hold crack close and then used the mighty vac with same results hence one whole bottle for only the front Gamuru. If i missed someones post my bad. Thanks for the help guys/gals. Keep it coming.
  14. The fact that the pads extend and grip the rotors upon the first application indicates that the brakes WILL work. Even if a rotor is bent, the pads will extend to the rotor. The fact that the lever goes completely to the handle bar upon subsequent applications indicates that air is entering the system. Until you correct that situation, you'll not have brakes.

    Have you checked ALL the banjo fittings on the brake lines to verify they're tight? One of the fittings may have loosened in the collision. After you find and tighten any loose fittings, you'll need to bleed the brakes again to expell any air that has entered the system.
  15. Torqued the banjo bolts non where loose. I borrowed some stands (Thanks again). By the time I got home it was getting late but I put the bike on the stands and spun the wheel something is tweaked. It goes kind of easy then it gets hard just looking at it with a flashlight nothing looks bent. Going to get a run-out gauge and go from there. Any other suggestions?
  16. Sounds like a bent rotor. Your forks might also be tweaked.
  17. Brakes work, roll bike, bent rotor pushes pads out again. AL carriers are quite soft and easily bent.
  18. So :scratchea you say it pumps up and holds fine until you roll/move the bike? Then it stops working and the leaver goes to the grip?

    That is a bent rotor.

    The pads push out, hold, then the "bend" comes around and pushes the pads back in. Now the pads are too far away from the rotor to grip. Now you'd have to pump the leaver to get back out far enough to grip.

    You say you've spin the wheel and everything "looks" good?
    The pads don't need to be very far from the disk to cause them not to work. The pads only need to move a few Thousands of an inch to grip. If you push just one pad back into the caliper about an 1/16" it's going to take a full pull on the leaver to get it pushed back out. Of course that first pull goes right to the grip and you have no bite at all till you go for the second pull on the leaver.

    What if you get pressure and hold the leaver pulled in? Will it stay? Or does it slowly move toward the grip? In other words, can you squeeze the leaver for an extended period of time and it holds?
  19. NSRG500's analysis of a bent rotor sounds correct. When the OP said the brakes worked upon the first application, but the lever went completely to the grip upon a subsequent application, I didn't realize it was only ONE subsequent application. If the lever were to then be activated several times, and the pads DID subsequently grip the rotor, that means that there's no air in the system, and that the pad(s) had been pushed back into the caliper by a bent rotor.

    EBC rotors are expensive, but they do work. Mine were over $400/pair. See for a description of the EBC SD, (square-drive), brake rotors.
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2012
  20. Yup Rotors are warped. Does anyone have some they want to get rid of? If not the bike bike is going to sit for a week or two. Thanks everyone.,
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