try removing those ASV levers...they're said to restrict a few ponies in the mid range....
:nana

 

Looks like excellent power.
The dips in the midrange are a little troubling. You just got a slip on so its probably the cat or possibly an exhaust valve thing. Some of them apparrently are designed to restrict flow at certain rpms for noise compliance.
Could be smoothed by getting a full exhaust and remapping or removing the restrictions and remapping.
Or you could just ride around it. WOT all the time?

 

Tell us what we're looking at.

What is the difference between the green and blue lines? Is one bone stock, the other with mods? Or is one with mods, and the other after tuning?

I have the same bike, same pipe but without a PC3, and I notice a huge dip in my powerband right after 6k, so your map kinda proves what I feel on my bike.

Did you disable the SET valve?

It's hard to tell if it's tuned correctly without seeing the A/F ratio mapped out as well. It appears there could be some improvement in the tuning around 6-8k.

 

They said that the blue line is the first run without tuning. The green line is with tuning. I asked them if they could fix the DIP in the 6-8 range and they said they could but they tune for maximum horse power.

Also, I don't think I did about the SET valve.

 

yup and the light green and light blue is torque


good numbers for a 600

so you took it up to 15k rpm? dam

 

Sweet. Thanks.

I am wondering if I should remove the SET valve. What the hell does that do anyways.

 

The SET valve is an emmision valve designed to allow fresh air into the exhaust port to complete the combustion process ( it's a smog thing )
If you are using a Gas Analizer, you want to disable it ( just unplug it ) other wise your readings will show lean.
A common thing to do on a race bike ( which isn't supersport legal, but none the less alot of people do it anyways) is to rout your crank case vent hose directly up to your SET valve.
It's purpose to help evacuate crank case pressure and reduce pumping losses inside your cases which can produce more hp ( hense the reason it aint legal in most supersport classes)
In an open class bike like a GSXR1000 it can produce upwards of 4 more hp, but in a 600 it's not that much.

 

Good top end numbers for a 600, from what I've seen, BUT

1) Notice that the runs are UNCORRECTED. that means your bike is now tuned for a below standard baro pressure, below standard temp and low humidity day. It's gonna suck come summer.

2) Although your second run (in green) posted higher top end numbers after their tuning, it also created a mid range dip. Unless you race or just like to live in the upper rpm range, that wouldn't have been my choice for a tuning trade-off.

 

Good top end numbers for a 600, from what I've seen, BUT

1) Notice that the runs are UNCORRECTED. that means your bike is now tuned for a below standard baro pressure, below standard temp and low humidity day. It's gonna suck come summer.

That's not how correction numbers work. Anytime you dyno tune anything, you're only tuning for the current conditions. The "correction factor" is nothing more than playing with the numbers after the dyno run. It's a way to standardize horsepower numbers, so that the effects of varying atmospheric conditions can be ruled out, and a dyno run from Seattle (cold, dense, dry air) could be compared to one in Florida (hot humid air). It has nothing to do with the actual tuning of the bike.

The SET valve is an emmision valve designed to allow fresh air into the exhaust port to complete the combustion process ( it's a smog thing )

You're thinking PAIR valve. The SET valve is just an exhaust flapper.

i would leave it for a bike that is ridden on the street. low end torque is going to help you in pulling out from a dead stop vs seeing more hp in some rpm range you do not ride in all day.

On these bikes specifically, there is no torque benefit from leaving the SET in place - stock, slip-on or full system. It's purely there to decrease sound.

 

Anyone who tunes for maximum horsepower is a shitty tuner.

 

Alright, I found a guide on how to take the SET valve off so I will do that within the week. Should I have them do another dyno after I take this SET valve off and tune it again?

 

Yeah, I wish I would have known about that SET valve before I took it to dyno tune because they said I would have to pay them another $300 bucks just to have it tuned again with the SET valve removed. What a bunch of jackass's.

 

Leave it the way it is and spend that three hundred on a track school. The bike will ride fine the way it is.

 

It was the place I bought my bike. RMC

 

Ah, heh. Yeah.. I don't have a high opinion of RMC.