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Choke lever doesn't stay pulled out

7.7K views 27 replies 10 participants last post by  bubba_zenetti  
#1 ·
Hey all. Installed the rebuilt carbs, gas tank, new battery, new spark plugs and about a gallon of gas to get her going. The one thing I noticed is that before I took the carbs in to get rebuilt the choke lever would stay pulled out when I pulled it out. Now it wants to spring back in. It started within 3 seconds but I have to hold the choke lever out till it warms up and then can give it a bit of throttle to keep it going. Is there a setting on the choke lever that I need to adjust? Also, I need to adjust the idle. Do I just turn the knob that is between the carbs towards the rear? I was pleased that it fired right up and runs great when I give it a bit of throttle. No exhaust smoke at all and runs smooth. Once it warmed up I was able to open up the throttle a bit and it didn't sputter at all. :mfclap: I couldn't believe how fast it fired up for having sat for 15+ years.

Oops, forgot to say that it's a 1980 Suzuki GS250T that I'm restoring.
 
#2 ·
You need one of them thar Rossi levers. Someone was makin em a few years back, should still be around, do a search;)................JOhn
 
#7 ·
Well, I posted it on the GS Resources forum and here's the answer I got...

"The GS250 service manual shows a friction spring and ball in at least one carburetor that presses on the steel slide-rod for the choke. The purpose of the spring and ball is to provide a little pressure on the rod to keep it in position and keep if from snapping back in when pulled out. The service manual also warns one not to lose the ball and spring if the rod is removed. Your shop that did the rebuild probably removed the rod and forgot to put the spring and ball back in. Check with them as you mentioned."

I hope I don't have to take the carbs back off to have the spring and ball put back in. That would suck big time.
 
#8 ·
that would be a bit of some misinformation. there is no ball and sping in those carburetors. the plungers are spring loaded and designed to snap back when the rod is pulled. as a matter of fact, i just checked the parts microfilm for it and there is no spring or ball. there is a rod attached to the enrichment plungers which are spring loaded. the rod that is attached to them goes through a loop on each carb. it would physically be impossible to put a spring and ball in the loops considering they are about 5mm in diameter.

the reason why they stayed open in the first place was because the plungers were pretty gummed up.


in the illustration below(actual suzuki microfilm), you can see the loop in the carb. there is no spring in it and there is no ball.

Image
 
#13 ·
Ok, I've spent the better part of 3 hours searching the internet and different forums including the GS Resource forum. That forum is dedicated soley to the older GS Suzuki's. I also emailed Ron Hurd who has a collection of 30 bikes including 10 older GS Series Suzuki's. He has one just like mine so I wanted to ask him as well. His site is pretty cool. Scrool down to see all his bikes. Link to Ron Hurd's Bike page He emailed me back within 20 minutes tell me the same thing all the other forums are telling me. That the choke lever is supposed to stay where you put it when you pull it out.

Anyway, every single site I've visited and email I've gotten back said that the choke lever on the Mikuni carbs that I have on my bike are supposed to stay where you pull them out. You can pull the choke out part way, half way, all the way or anywhere in between. The choke lever is designed to stay where you put it! Thus, setting the choke so you can start the bike! Then you push it back in when the bike is warm. But the info I've gotten on here is that it is NOT supposed to stay out and that it's supposed to spring back in when you let go of it. I will buy dinner (at my next bike night) for the first person who can come over to my place and show me how to start the bike, using the choke lever and without the assistance of another person and without using your foot or forehead (the only way I could do it by myself) You have to pull out the choke lever, pull in the clutch lever and the starter button is on the right handlebar. When you let go of the choke lever to pull in the clutch the choke lever springs back in. I want to know the secret for doing this. Soooooo, let the contest begin! I'm available any time after 3:30 for someone to come over and start it this way. Thank you very much.
 
#15 ·
not that easy... electronic switch wants you to pull clutch in. Then the switch wears out and you have to pull in and up on the clutch to get it to realize your doing it :)
 
#17 ·
So the choke pulls from the side of the carb or up near the handlebars?

Try to chase the mechanics of the choke and see if there looks like something isnt doing something i.e. loose set screw or bent tab... something that would be draggin on the choke mechinism to hold in where you put it.
 
#19 ·
So the choke pulls from the side of the carb or up near the handlebars?
Left hand side (if you are sitting on the bike) of the carb. Says "Choke" right on the plastic end cap that you pull out. Adrian (at SSU who did the carb rebuild) says that it's not supposed to stay where you put it but is designed to spring back in when you let go of it. That doesn't make much sense to me.

I just got off the phone with my Brother-in-law who gave me the bike and he even confirms that the choke lever (he called it the choke slider because it really isn't a lever) is supposed to stay however far you pull it out. It said it would be kind of hard to start it if it didn't. (when it's cold). He's the original owner of the bike and said that when he purchased it brand new the choke lever would slide out with resistance and you put it wherever you needed it put it so that the bike would start when it was cold. Then once it's running at the higher rpm from the choke doing it's job then you push it back in and the rpm would come down to normal idling. He said around 1200 is where it always idled. He said it was working fine when they put it in storage and it seemed to slide just fine when I took it in to get rebuilt.
 
#20 ·
You could rubber band the clutch, get it warmed up, ride it over to the people who rebuilt it, and say "what the hell man?" :) they obviously left of or bent or rotated whatever is suppost to be "resistance" on the choke rod.
 
#21 ·
If I could make any sence of a blown up skimatics of the carb above I could probably pic out what is suppost to do what but I cant.
 
#22 ·
dude,

there is simple fix for all this, bring the bike by and i will look at the choke lever. the thing should slide out and stay out but at the same time, it is spring loaded so it is designed to snap back in place the second any amount of push is initiated on it.

for future reference, if you have any issues with those things, call me. they are 28 years old and pretty trashed when you brought them in. they probably have a few gremlins lurking in them.
 
#23 ·
So it IS supposed to stay out. That's what I tried saying in the first place. If you would have said that the first time then I wouldn't have spent half the day asking a zillion other people. I was going crazy thinking that I was seeing things before I took them off to get cleaned. Simple fix? Not when you're the one who has to take the carbs out again. lol I can't ride it up to you as the tabs are from 1988. I'll just do the forehead on starter button for now. I don't need the choke when it's warm just cold. At least I got it to idle at 1200 rpm. Thanks for clarifying that it is supposed to stay out and then go back when you push it back in. I remember before I took them off it pulled out very smoothly and pushed in very smoothly. Well, for being so trashed you sure said that the diaphrams were in good condition. I'm glad I didn't have to replace those as well. Next project, to sync the carbs so it runs better than it already does.
 
#24 ·
but if you cant ride the bike to me because your tabs are expired, you cant ride it to me silly:nana

i think i may have confused you. yes they are suppose to stay out, but there is no mechanisim to keep them out. the fit of the rod in the hole provides enough tension to keep them out but they are also spring loaded and will slide right back in on their own. a small push on them is sometimes needed but the springs are there to make sure the plungers seat on the carb bodies.

yup, the diaphrams were in decent enough shape for being 28 years old, they were just frozen in the bores by 28 years of green goo buildupcrackup:

if you ride that thing over, illl sync your carbs for ya on me.
 
#27 ·
Then we watch HIM choke!!!!! Long live chokes!!!!! I wish those snooty F/I'rs, had to 'tickle" to get it to start!!!!! Amal meet'rd leak F/I!!!!!!! or "Bing", to the boys from Bavaria"
free and clean, ripp'n