Does anyone know if the ethanol-free gas at the North Plains Chevron contains detergents? I recently cleaned my throttle bodies and peered down into the intake. The intake valves weren't exactly spotless. The ethonal- free gas from the North Plains Chevron is the only gas I have been putting in my bike. Just wondering if maybe they don't use detergents in it.
Corkey
Here's what I know/believe:
Th Fed's mandate a minimum additive package for all gasoline sold for automotive fuel. I think, (but am not sure) that the justification for non-ethanol fuel is for small engine's, (lawnmowers, chain saws, etc.) where ethanol can cause problems. I don't know if non-ethanol fuel has the same additive mandate
The minimum package doesn't do a great job of keeping many fuel injector types clean. Some major oil companies have added their own proprietary additive package on top of the mandated package. If it meets certain standards its marketed as "Top Teir" fuel.
Additives will not clean carboned injectors or valves. They do however prevent or greatly minimize those deposits from forming. From your observations it appears that the non ethanol fuel you're using doesn't have much of an additive package.
If your bike has carburetors You can probably live with the deposit buildup. If its FI and you want to continue using a non Top Tier fuel you should consider adding a few ounces of injector cleaner, (Techron, Sea Foam, etc.) to your tank at every fill up. This won't clean anything but will prevent further buildup.
Th Fed's mandate a minimum additive package for all gasoline sold for automotive fuel. I think, (but am not sure) that the justification for non-ethanol fuel is for small engine's, (lawnmowers, chain saws, etc.) where ethanol can cause problems. I don't know if non-ethanol fuel has the same additive mandate
The minimum package doesn't do a great job of keeping many fuel injector types clean. Some major oil companies have added their own proprietary additive package on top of the mandated package. If it meets certain standards its marketed as "Top Teir" fuel.
Additives will not clean carboned injectors or valves. They do however prevent or greatly minimize those deposits from forming. From your observations it appears that the non ethanol fuel you're using doesn't have much of an additive package.
If your bike has carburetors You can probably live with the deposit buildup. If its FI and you want to continue using a non Top Tier fuel you should consider adding a few ounces of injector cleaner, (Techron, Sea Foam, etc.) to your tank at every fill up. This won't clean anything but will prevent further buildup.
Miles on that old VFR?
Could be worn valve guides, worn valve stem seals or blow by coming through the crank case vent hose. The crank case vent hose dumps right into the airbox....nice, hot oily air that loves to stick to intake valves. The Chevron fuel you buy should contain the Techron detergent package ethanol free or not. I run it in my SV exclusively and last time I checked my intake valves they were almost spotless.
Could be worn valve guides, worn valve stem seals or blow by coming through the crank case vent hose. The crank case vent hose dumps right into the airbox....nice, hot oily air that loves to stick to intake valves. The Chevron fuel you buy should contain the Techron detergent package ethanol free or not. I run it in my SV exclusively and last time I checked my intake valves they were almost spotless.
My 98 VFR has roughly 23,000 miles on it, which I consider extremely low for the year and motor.
Was wondering if CRC 1 Tank Power Renew would be OK to use in my bike. Any opinions on it?
http://crcindustries.com/auto/power-renew-rebate-coupon.php
Was wondering if CRC 1 Tank Power Renew would be OK to use in my bike. Any opinions on it?
http://crcindustries.com/auto/power-renew-rebate-coupon.php
You probably won't like this either but running too high of an octane in an engine not designed for it can cause deposit build up, especially in city/low RPM driving. Your engine was designed for 87, not 92/93. The higher octane actually burns slower and colder and can lead to quicker build up. There are no benefits to running a higher octane fuel in an engine and fuel management system designed for 87....mostly downsides. It was also designed to run with ethanol.....in effect, your fuel mixture now is too rich for the engine, fuel map, and ignition map. If you're insistent on running the higher octane, you should consider getting a tuner and having it tuned on the dyno. Probably want to run a hotter spark plug also. Your manual may state to use a RON (Research Octane Number) of 91....however, that's not how the USA measures AKI (anti-Knock index). Convert RON (EU/Japan) to PON (Pump Octane Number-USA) and you get 87.
USA (AKI/PON) --- Europe (RON)
87 = 91
89 = 93
91 = 95
93 = 98
Given the low mileage and that you live in town, are your trips mostly short distance? This can also lead to quicker deposit build up, as can a lot of idling in traffic, at stop lights, etc. I would suspect that this, combined with the improper octane fuel is what's causing your build up so quickly.
I'd not use that CRC stuff. If the build up is that heavy, it should be removed manually. If it's minor, add the proper amount of Seafoam to your gas....probably a quarter can per full tank. It will help but as stated, if the build up is that large it should be removed by hand.
USA (AKI/PON) --- Europe (RON)
87 = 91
89 = 93
91 = 95
93 = 98
Given the low mileage and that you live in town, are your trips mostly short distance? This can also lead to quicker deposit build up, as can a lot of idling in traffic, at stop lights, etc. I would suspect that this, combined with the improper octane fuel is what's causing your build up so quickly.
I'd not use that CRC stuff. If the build up is that heavy, it should be removed manually. If it's minor, add the proper amount of Seafoam to your gas....probably a quarter can per full tank. It will help but as stated, if the build up is that large it should be removed by hand.
I've never heard of the RON>PON conversion. Japan is in Asia not Europe, so does this conversion still apply? How does someone know when and where to correctly apply this conversion?
I assumed because the manual was written in English, references imperial units (i.e. 5.55 US gal) and the fact that the bike was sold in the US that I would be OK to do as the manual states as follows.
FUEL
"Use unleaded or low-lead petrol with a research octane number of 91 or higher. We recommend that you use unleaded petrol because it produces fewer engine and spark plug deposits and extends the life of exhaust system components."
PETROL CONTAINING ALCOHOL
"If you decide to use a petrol containing alcohol (gasohol), be sure it's octane rating is at least as high as that recommended by Honda. There are two types of "gasohol": one containing ethanol and the other containing methanol. Do not use petrol that contains more than 10% ethanol. Do not use petrol containing methanol (methyl or wood alcohol) that does not also contain cosolvents and corrosion inhibitors for methanol. Never use petrol containing more than 5% methanol, even if it has cosolvents and corrosion inhibitors."
Why would you not use the CRC 1-Tank Power Renew stuff?
I assumed because the manual was written in English, references imperial units (i.e. 5.55 US gal) and the fact that the bike was sold in the US that I would be OK to do as the manual states as follows.
FUEL
"Use unleaded or low-lead petrol with a research octane number of 91 or higher. We recommend that you use unleaded petrol because it produces fewer engine and spark plug deposits and extends the life of exhaust system components."
PETROL CONTAINING ALCOHOL
"If you decide to use a petrol containing alcohol (gasohol), be sure it's octane rating is at least as high as that recommended by Honda. There are two types of "gasohol": one containing ethanol and the other containing methanol. Do not use petrol that contains more than 10% ethanol. Do not use petrol containing methanol (methyl or wood alcohol) that does not also contain cosolvents and corrosion inhibitors for methanol. Never use petrol containing more than 5% methanol, even if it has cosolvents and corrosion inhibitors."
Why would you not use the CRC 1-Tank Power Renew stuff?
Yup, Japan is in Asia. However, I wasn't sure what all of Asia used so I just went with what I knew to be true.
RON 91 is PON (USA/Canada) 87. USA uses PON (R+M/2, technically). Ah, the little things that they don't tell you, right? This is one of those things you have to find out yourself or be taught in a school about building/maintaining/tuning engines. This is why everyone thinks the EU has higher octane, and therefor better quality fuel, than the US does. In fact, it's the same stuff just using a different numbering system. Their 98 RON is our 92/93 PON we get out of a pump. Think of it like us using Imperial and the rest of the world using Metric!
CRC is pretty high powered stuff. I have good experience with SeaFoam and know it won't damage your motor or fuel pump, even if you use the whole can at once. The other thing is, if the valves are as bad as you say they are, you really don't want craploads of carbon chunks or chips making their way through the combustion chamber to the exhaust valves.
How do you know to apply the conversion? That's easy! If you live in the USA or Canada, we use PON. If your manual mentions Research Octane Number, you need to convert it to PON. Plus, if you look carefully on the pumps, they tell you what formula they use. Our pumps are labeled with the R+M/2 (PON) nomenclature, typically on a label near the pump handle. If you see that, it's PON but really you don't have to worry unless you're on another continent.
RON 91 is PON (USA/Canada) 87. USA uses PON (R+M/2, technically). Ah, the little things that they don't tell you, right? This is one of those things you have to find out yourself or be taught in a school about building/maintaining/tuning engines. This is why everyone thinks the EU has higher octane, and therefor better quality fuel, than the US does. In fact, it's the same stuff just using a different numbering system. Their 98 RON is our 92/93 PON we get out of a pump. Think of it like us using Imperial and the rest of the world using Metric!
CRC is pretty high powered stuff. I have good experience with SeaFoam and know it won't damage your motor or fuel pump, even if you use the whole can at once. The other thing is, if the valves are as bad as you say they are, you really don't want craploads of carbon chunks or chips making their way through the combustion chamber to the exhaust valves.
How do you know to apply the conversion? That's easy! If you live in the USA or Canada, we use PON. If your manual mentions Research Octane Number, you need to convert it to PON. Plus, if you look carefully on the pumps, they tell you what formula they use. Our pumps are labeled with the R+M/2 (PON) nomenclature, typically on a label near the pump handle. If you see that, it's PON but really you don't have to worry unless you're on another continent.
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